INSERT PIC OF Coonversion parts here........ instead of listing of information below, insert table of data taken from html pages. file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/BrentW/My%20Documents/My%20Websites/My%20Website%20Stormhosts/vanagon/HTML/05/06/slideshow.html Item# Units Item Desc 01 1 Water Pump 02 1 Timing Belt Pulley 03 1 Timing Belt 04 8 feet Heat Shrink Tubing for Wire 05 1 Subaru Deck Lid Emblem 06 5 feet 3/8'' Oil Cooler Hose 07 1 Aftermarket B&M Transmission Cooler 08 2 4 3/8'' Barbed Fittings for Tranny to Cooler 3/8'' Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 09 1 OEM Thermostat 10 2 Fan Belts (A/C & Power Steering) 11 3 Wiring Harness Fuse Holders 12 6 feet 1/4'' Fuel Line 13 2 1 2 Aftermarket Gauges (Oil Press. & Water Temp) Aftermaket Gauge Senders 1/4'' NPT Street Ells for Oil Press Sender 14 2 Intake Manifold Gaskets 15 2 Valve Cover Gaskets 16 2 Exhaust Header Flange Gaskets 17 1 Muffler Clamp 18 1 LED for Dash ECU Light 19 1 VSS - SmallCar 20 1 Motor Mount - SmallCar 21 2 1 1 Camshaft Seals Front Crankshaft Seal Rear Crankshaft Seal 22 4 SparkPlugs 23 25 feet Extension Cord - Wiring Run to van dash (6 wires) 24 1 Oil Filter 25 4 feet 1 1/8'' Vacuum Hose 1/8'' Vacuum Tee 26 1 Coolant System Kit - Tom Shiels 27 1 KEP Adapter 28 6 feet 2 3/8'' Stainless Braided PS Hose 6AN Hose Ends 28 2 16mm X 1.5 Oring Adapters 29 6 feet 1/4'' Coolant Hose 30 6 feet 5/8'' Coolant Hose 31 1 KEP Flex Adapter for Auto Trans Vanagon 32 1 H&R Stainless Steel Coolant Return Pipe 33 1 H&R Chopped OilPan with Dipstick Routed to Stock Vanagon Location 34 4 4 4 4 1 1/2'' Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 5/8'' Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 3/8'' Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 1/4'' Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 35 1 Jet Coated KEP Exhaust Header w/ Stainless Cat/Muffler. ____________________________________________________________________________________ this part still needs editing................................... PICKING PARTS The parts you use and the amount of work you farm out will have a very large influence on the final cost of your conversion project. I'm sure that it's possible to fabricate each and every one of the necessary parts needed for converting your Vanagon if you're a super handy person with access to lots of great tools and materials. I don't have all the tools to fabricate so I purchased almost all of my conversion parts from various vendors. I used my experience with my first conversion to help me decide which parts to use in my current Vanagon's kit. The main parts that you'll need for your vanagon engine conversion are the bell housing adapter which joins the subaru engine to the vanagon gearbox, the exhaust header, the engine mount or an adapter to get the subaru engine to sit properly on the vanagon engine mount, modification of your oilpan to increase clearance (optional), and the throttle body air intake plumbing. One overall note I wanted to make is that I am amazed that the vendors have chosen to forego including simple instructions with their parts. It would be a very simple process for them to come up with a document to give the user step by step instructions on installing the purchased part. Come on guys, throw us a bone here. ENGINE MOUNT On the first conversion I went with KEP's crossbar. Second conversion I chose SmallCar's engine mount because I wanted to easily reinstall the vw side heatshields and because I liked the idea of being able to re-use my vw stock engine mount. The heat shields that come with the vanagon protect the engine on the rear, and both sides. It is a difficult task to get them to fit with the kep mount. I also like the weight distribution on the smallcar mount. SmallCar needs to pay attention to the finish of their mounts though. Mine came to me without having been thoroughly wire brushed before being painted. A nit but not too much to ask. On all of my subsequent installations I used the MasterCraft engine mounts. They are well engineered and come with the capability to route the dipstick up to the license plate access door. SmallCar, and KEP, and most recently, MasterCraft, are the major players in the US market for engine mounts. Australia and the UK (and I'm sure Germany) both have custom conversion engine mount fabricators as I've heard. MODIFIED OILPAN I chose MasterCraft's modified oilpan which allows me to check the oil from through the license plate hole (just like on the vanagon engine). MasterCraft typically installs SmallCar mounts with their shop conversion (this is no longer true as of 2007 when mastercraft began manufacturing their own mounts). Still, there is a significant amount of work necessary for adaptation of the SmallCar mount to allow routing of the MasterCraft OilPan dipstick tube. There are several vendors that I've heard of that do the oilpan chop. SmallCar, KEP, MasterCraft, Leon Korkin, all offer this service. MasterCraft is the only one that keeps the oil dipstick accessible from the license door though which I really like. If you're going to go with MasterCraft's unit, make sure that you purchase the smallcar mount through him so that he can mod the mount for you. Also get the dipstick from him saving you the work of having to bend your own. I've personally used both SmallCar and MasterCraft's oilpans. With MasterCraft, the welds on pan looked really good, SmallCar was a year or so ago and wasn't quite as pretty. Overall quality of both was very good. Update: Smallcar now sells a flexible stainless steel hose oil dipstick tube. This means that even with the stock location of the dipstick tube entry point on the pan, the dipstick can be routed up to the rear access lid for easy checking. The dipstick tube costs another 70 bucks or so though so your overall cost is likely more. If you're trying to cut costs, consider leaving your oilpan alone. The stock subaru oilpan does hang quite low but if you're not offroading and remember to be kinda careful over speed bumps and such, you'll be alright. EXHAUST HEADER I stuck with Keps header because I had such good luck with my last one. Will get this one jetcoated so that i'll have another shiny bit, at least until it ages. As I understand it, the jetcoating is like applying ceramic coating to the header in that it gives a protective layer to keep the metal from corroding as fast. It still corrodes, but it will take longer if jetcoated or ceramic coated. If you are going to the extra work of having your exhaust header ceramic coated, you might consider having them coat the internal walls of the pipe as well. This helps stave off corrosion from the inside which is where it always starts, and allows the pipe to breathe easier (less friction). Tom Shiels is designing a header from stainless that I'm dying to try out. SmallCar's header is good, I'm sure, but does require a jpipe, just like stock, which I thought was unnecessary. I've also heard stories about SmallCar's header conflicting with removal of the oilpan although that might just be a wives tale and you should check it out for yourself to be sure. EXHAUST COMPONENTS First conversion I went all KEP. This time around I'm experimenting with stainless steel mufflers in order to attempt to get a bit more longevity out of the exhaust. I purchased a muffler from a company down in Florida and will be monitoring it's noise level and durability. The catalytic converter is stainless as well but then they all are to my knowledge. Remember that deviation from KEPs offered exhaust components will take you outside of the KEP kit meaning that you are not adhering to their specification and are no longer have California Air Resource Board (CARB) exemption. I later replaced the noisy stainless steel muffler with a universal oval muffler purchased and installed by a local muffler shop for $100 which included a Lifetime Warranty. Very pleased with the fit, tone, and quiet that resulted. The use of the stock vanagon muffler and cat is ok with kep and tom shiels. Not quite sure about smallcar as i've heard that use of their header and jpipe pushes the cat and muffler to the right (as you look at the back of the van). This would mean that with some of the long stock vanagon mufflers you'd be pushing too far to the right and could conflict with the passenger side of the van fender area. COOLANT PIPING If you've ever checked out the subaruvanagon yahoo user group on the internet, you'll know painfully well how much some people do not like others to use copper piping and soldered joints in their coolant system plumbing. Most folks use some sort of pipe to make the long run from the vanagon coolant pipes and the inlet/outlet on the subaru engine. I've heard of folks using copper, galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum for this job. You can also use a type of strong marine exhaust pipe called Bellowsflex. It has an internal wire coiled throughout to keep it from collapsing and can stand up to high temperatures. You'll need to decide if you want to reverse your coolant manifold (which has the affect of tidying up your engine compartment but requires removal and reinstallation of the coolant manifold and either having your own manifold modified by an aluminum welder or purchasing a modified one from a vendor). Iv'e gone with MasterCraft's return coolant pipe (stainless steel) for my return line from the radiator to the subaru engine. I've reversed my coolant manifold so the run from the neck of the coolant manifold to the vanagon coolant line is relatively short and can be handled with a short section of 1 1/2" radiator hose. To assist with even circulation of the coolant in the subaru engine, I purchased Tom Shiels coolant kit. It comes with a nicely milled aluminum flange which sandwiches between the subaru thermostat and the subaru water pump. On my last conversion I went with Vanaru's setup which is superior to all other offerings in fit and finish, parts included, and instructions included. I like those guys and wish they made more conversion parts. Their kit comes with a reversed coolant manifold with beautiful welds as well. MasterCraft RETURN COOLANT PIPE A real jem. Polishes well, is well built and fits perfectly. Needs simple installation instructions. Optional: Needs the top barb (or instructions to do so) of the 1/4" connector lopped off to lower the flow of coolant air bubbles/bypass. Overall quality very good. Instructions should note that user will require additional parts list: (4) 1-1/2" Hose Clamps (2) 1-1/2" Straight Radiator Hose - 6" length 3' 1/4" Coolant Hose SmallCar's got a sweet little all-in-one coolant kit. Tom Shiels makes a great kit as well. ACCELERATOR LINKAGE KIT Available from SmallCar, MasterCraft, and KEP. I've used them all and was very impressed with the MasterCraft unit kit, I installed it and did not even need to make additional adjustments. The action is of the accelerator cable is as good or better than the stock setup. Comes with everything needed to install. LACKING INSTRUCTIONS. The installation is intuitive only once you've done it. The inclusion of a line drawing of the adapter part is not useful. HEAT SHIELD Depending on the route you go with muffler mounts, engine mounts, etc. you will make a decision on how to replace your heat shield that protects the face of the engine from the catalytic converter/muffler heat. I went with smallcar's mount, MasterCraft's muffler mount, and was able to easily use the stock heat shield. All vendors sell a heat shield. HERE'S A PARTIAL CONVERSION PARTS LIST Basic kit from KEP; adapter plate, flexplate, bolts (for Auto Trans) Modified Subaru Oil Pan Heat shield Reversed Subaru Water Manifold Engine Conversion Mount Adapter Subaru Engine Mt Rubber Inner, 2 Subaru Engine Mt Rubber Outer, 2 Exhaust Headers Header Gaskets, 2 Ox2 Sensor Muffler Brackets, Pair Muffler Clamps, 2 Muffler / Catlytic Converter Coolant Reservoir Bracket (optional) Power Steer Hose, Vw To Sub Accelerator Cable Kit Vehicle Speed Sensor Coolant Bypass Kit Auto Trans Cooler Kit Intake Air Duct Air filter and intake muffler