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DOOR LOCK WIRING UPGRADE


From An Article By Todd (Found on vanagon.com mailing list)

I'm in the middle of doing this very thing and taking photos as I go. Finding matching wire - particularly the colored wire with stripes has been something I have not had success with. If anyone has any resources, please post.

Here is what I had found out so far.

  1. Make sure your windows are UP if you have power windows.
  2. Disconnect battery
  3. Remove the fusebox from its mounts (but don't unplug anything)
  4. You can now access all the plugs from the door wires. Label the connectors and unplug.
  5. Cut the wire ties holding the harness to the door, label and disconnect the connectors.
  6. Thread the harness out the door. Slowly. You may have to play with getting the connectors through, but you can do them all without cutting any wires.
  7. Examine the wires. You will find most are broken in the first 12."
  8. IMHO you are better off replacing the whole wire than just patching it with connectors.
  9. I'm going to try adding a nylon mesh covering over the wires - like sold at speed shops for hose dressing - the idea that this will make it easier to keep the wires together and give them a little more "slip"

That's what I have so far.

Oh, I'd do one side at a time - that way you always have the opposite side connected as an emergency reference.

Todd

DOOR LOCK SWITCH REPAIR


From An Article By Frank Condelli (Found on vanagon.com mailing list)

Q: anyone ever have when the driver door is unlocked the passenger lock will not go up at all and then the drivers automatically relocks itself? When i use the passenger to lock or unlock everything works great. Any ideas?

Patrick, this is a VERY common problem but there are numerous reasons why it is occurring. You must methodically disassemble each of the front door power door lock mechanisms and check all the contacts and wiring from door to door. I have found that sometimes it's the contacts inside the mechanism that are corroded, or the sliding plate springs have seized, or one of the junctions has corroded contacts, or a wire has broken in the door harness between the door and door post usually where the bending occurs when opening and closing the door.

Wiring Descriptions

  • Red wire = 12V + (power always).
  • Yellow and white are the activation wires for opening and closing the opposite door and vice versa.

When you get the mechanism open you can do the following test:

Make a jumper wire from a short piece of 14 gauge wire and jump 12v + from the red to the white and then the yellow. The opposite door mechanism should open and close.

If not then there is a broken wire some where in whichever wire does not activate. Once you jump and activate one of the wires it then becomes 12 v + if the other door switch is working properly. What you have here is a common three way switch.

  • Use dielectric grease on all electrical contacts and connections after cleaning off any corrosion.
  • Use light machine oil to lubricate the motor bushings.
  • Use white lithium grease on the gears.

Hope this has been helpful and good luck.

Cheers

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada